Antifouling and hull: the right product, documented application
Antifouling is a boat's annual shield - the wrong product or poor surface preparation means paint shedding within a season and fuel bills climbing. At Care the job starts with a hull report: the current paint condition is photographed, the product and number of coats are settled in a written quote, and the application is documented layer by layer. If it isn't needed, we say so plainly: no paint this year.
Scope
Antifouling application
Hard / ablative type selection, coat plan and antifouling with a layer log
Surface preparation
Stripping, sanding, primer - the real craftsmanship that decides how long the paint lasts
Cut & polish
Topside shine, oxidation removal, seasonal protection
Gelcoat repair
Scratch, crack and impact repair; colour matching
Osmosis check & treatment
Moisture reading, blister assessment, an epoxy barrier where needed
Hull cleaning
In-season diver cleaning - performance without harming the paint
Specialist pages
How it works
Hull report
A photographed condition survey at the yard; the old paint, anodes and hull moisture readings are logged.
Written quote
Product brand, litres and number of coats in writing; haul-out and launch is a separate line item. Work that isn't needed isn't recommended.
Documented application
Every layer is photographed; the product invoice is added to your file and carried forward for the next season.
Tools
Choose the right paint
Hull area & paint consumption
Estimate the wetted area and the paint you'll need from your boat length. The exact figure firms up in the yard with a hull report (surface condition, coat plan); if it isn't needed, we say 'no antifouling this year'.
28m²
Estimated wetted area
6L
2 coats of paint
Example material range: 210-330 € (paint only, primer and labour excluded). The real driver is surface prep: the gap between a light sand and a full strip is large, and it appears as a separate line in the quote.
The wetted area is an estimate; exact consumption and price firm up with the hull report.
Send the result on WhatsAppComparison
| Feature | Hard | Ablative |
|---|---|---|
| How it works | Stays on the surface, doesn't wear away | Slowly erodes and renews itself |
| Speed | Good for high speed / racing | Ideal for low-medium speed |
| Build-up / sanding | Builds up over time, needs sanding | Little build-up |
| Frequently hauled boat | Suitable | Very suitable |
| Overcoating compatibility | Doesn't suit every paint | Needs a system check |
See the proof
Example job: 10.5 m yacht - switching from ablative to hard antifouling
The old paint was stripped, primer + 2 coats of hard antifouling applied; every layer was photographed and the product invoice added to the file. (Real case photos will feed this card at launch.)
FAQ
How often should antifouling be done?+
Depending on how heavily the boat is used and the paint type, usually every 1-2 years. At every haul-out the hull condition is reported with photos; if the paint is still doing its job we say plainly 'not needed this year' - and you see it logged in the quote.
Hard paint or ablative?+
It depends on speed, how often the boat is used and the existing paint history; the two types don't always sit over one another. In the hull report we identify the current system and, if a switch is needed, explain the reason in writing.
Which brands do you work with?+
Manufacturer-approved systems, chiefly Jotun, International and Hempel. Brand choice is made to suit the boat; the quote states the product name, litres and number of coats - and if we recommend a product we have a supply arrangement with, we say so openly.
How is the price determined?+
By boat length, the scope of surface preparation (the gap between a light sand and a full strip is large) and the number of coats. The haul-out and launch fee belongs to the yard and appears as a separate line item in the quote.
What happens if antifouling isn't done?+
A fouled hull first costs you speed and fuel; over time mussels and weed damage the gelcoat, and the cleaning bill overtakes the cost of paint. An in-season diver check catches this risk early.
Won't diver cleaning harm the paint?+
Not with the right technique: a soft pad on ablative paint, and hard paint is easier to work. The wrong (stiff brush) cleaning shortens paint life - which is why we do the cleaning on record and with photos too.
On this topic: guides & glossary
For those wondering about the terms: the guide and glossary entries below explain this service in depth.
Let us see your boat on site
Start with a free introductory check; both the quote and the decision in writing.
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